Olena Grozovska: «We have not yet told the world our story»

Poland has submitted a film about Ukrainians, featuring Ukrainian actors, for the Oscars. The drama «Under the Volcano» by Polish director Damian Kocur explores the transformation of a family from tourists to refugees, due to the full-scale invasion. In this film, which premiered in September at the Toronto International Film Festival, Roman Lutskyi, a well-known actor for Polish audiences, starred. He is known for notable theatrical performances, such as «Hamlet» and «Forefathers' Eve (Dziady)» by Maja Kleczewska. Globally, he gained recognition through his lead role in «Reflection», the first Ukrainian film showcased at the Venice Film Festival. Lutskyi has walked the red carpet at this festival twice, and now, he has an Oscar submission.

«This is my third film about war without combat scenes»

- Damian Kocur once said that we Ukrainians live under a volcano that could erupt at any moment, - said Roman Lutskyi to Sestry. - Under the volcano refers to a neighbouring country, armed to the teeth. In 2014, this «volcano» awakened, and in 2022, it indeed erupted…

- Since «Reflection», you have become a serious dramatic actor. Sometimes, I do not recognise where that cheerful Oleshko Popovich from «The Stronghold» has gone. Your gaze especially has changed. You have also done a drama, «Honeymoon», about a couple's life under occupation, followed by «Under the Volcano» - and everywhere there is war.

- If you have noticed, «Under the Volcano» is already my third war film without combat scenes. People understand what war is like on the front line. But the war within Ukrainian families - Europeans do not see that.

With the onset of the great war, every family had to choose - to stay or to leave. This choice gave birth to numerous conflicts. Even in my family, we argued, deciding what to do next. War provokes micro-wars - within small family universes. It is not just about the combat scenes shown on television.

- And it is precisely about such a war that you tell in each of your films. You are not running on screen with a gun, but you reveal to the world the internal drama Ukrainians go through.

- Yes, this is not action, it is subtler, and that is interesting for me as an actor. 

«The director did not want to cast me because of my… «actorly» beard»

- Tell us, how did you end up in the film «Under the Volcano» and why director Damian Kocur chose you for the leading male role?

- Oh, it was quite a story. Kocur, a Polish director, is not very familiar with the Ukrainian acting market, so he asked the casting director to gather a list of Ukrainian actors for him. I was on the list, but the director initially dismissed me. As I later learned, Damian said that Roman Lutskyi was too handsome, with that overly actorly beard, and he wanted regular, ordinary people.

I was unaware of this until a friend asked me to help her record a self-tape, also for Kocur - just to stand behind the camera and argue with her on screen, and we did it. Damian saw the footage and asked who was that person behind the camera arguing so convincingly - saying he wanted the guy behind the camera. I was invited for an interview, and based on that, I was cast in one of the main roles.

- Why did Poland choose to submit the film «Under the Volcano» for the Oscars? It is not about Poles, it is about Ukrainians, and Ukrainians perform in it.

- Perhaps they saw that this particular film is competitive on the international stage and could resonate more strongly than local stories in the context of current events.

It also advocates for Ukraine. We often hear that people are tired of Ukrainians and their war, but it turns out that not everyone feels that way. The world needs to be constantly reminded of this war, and we are grateful to Poland for doing that.

There is only one question: whom should Ukrainians root for at the Oscars now - the Ukrainian film «La Palisade» or the Polish «Under the Volcano»?

In general, this film is for export. We have lived through all of this and understand very well who the enemy is. Meanwhile, the world has not fully grasped the danger of this war. Some still doubt, trying to advocate for the enemy. It is a dangerous game - to wait and not take notice, thinking that Ukraine will protect everyone. The volcano’s effects could be felt by all.

- Your first film about war was «Reflection», before that, you had not acted in such films. Director Valentyn Vasyanovych plunged you into the horrors of war at its very beginning - in 2014. Captivity, torture, PTSD... How difficult was it to act in such a film?

- As an actor, it was an intriguing challenge. It was crucial that Valentyn Vasyanovych, a deep-thinking director, made this film. The subjects of Ukrainian captivity and PTSD are weighty, and it was important to depict them correctly without exaggeration.

Viewers may have felt uncomfortable watching this film, but we know that the tortures shown in the film are experiences that Ukrainians endure in real life. Since 2014, the «Isolation» prison in the DPR territory has been a terrifying place where our people have been tortured in various ways. The worst part was that the captives did not know if they would ever be released.

I played a military surgeon who ended up in this prison. Immersed in the filming process, I lived alone in an apartment and hardly went out. At that time, I watched many videos on the subject and read numerous books. I tried to come close to that heavy and unpleasant state and to remain in it. To avoid «jumping» into it only when in front of the camera and then coming out after the director called «cut».

- Great actors, before playing a role, observe people similar to the characters they will portray. How do you prepare for roles - for instance, when playing a person with PTSD after captivity?

- I spoke at length with psychiatrists and with nurses in rehabilitation clinics.

Doctors told me how people walk after captivity - not straight, but curling up into a sort of «question mark», barely lifting their eyes from the ground

I used this technical detail about a captive’s physiology.

The film’s consultant, Stanislav Aseyev - a journalist and author of the book «The Bright Path. The Story of One Concentration Camp» - told me many things. He was a prisoner in the DPR’s «Isolation» concentration camp for 28 months and described in his book the horrors inflicted on captives there. For example, Aseyev explained in detail what a person feels when subjected to electric shock - I reproduced this in the scene where my character is tortured in this way. He described how the current passes through, which muscles contract, and whether it is possible to scream when the current goes from the ear to the hand, causing spasms in the vocal cords.

- These are very frightening things, but Vasyanovych managed to turn this material into a work of art.

- Yes, everything in Valentyn’s work is very meticulous, dry and without excessive drama. If you noticed, there is no music in «Reflection» because it would only intensify an already terrifying picture.

- You attended the screening of «Reflection» in Venice. How did the European audience respond to the film?

- After the screening, there was prolonged applause. People said that we managed to convey the filth of war through artistic means. This story moved viewers, many people cried. I would add that this film should be watched on a big screen because viewing it on a phone or even a computer does not convey the full range of emotions.

«I learnt Polish from TV by ear»

- Whom would you refuse to portray in films today? Perhaps an evil muscovite?

- Listen, but who should play Muscovites? Should we invite actual Muscovites or what? Many Ukrainian actors are fluent in Russian.

This is a reality because we are a post-colonial country. Just as Lebanese people speak French fluently, or Indians speak English. One actor or another will play a Muscovite. We do not always play likeable characters, that is our lot as actors.

Personally, I do not refuse roles, but I do refuse certain material. If it is superficial or vulgar, flat, and uninteresting, then definitely no. But if the material is deep and relevant, then I would take it on, even if I had to play a villain. The structure of dialogues also matters to me.

- So you would play the role?

- No, because I do not speak Russian. I can talk, but I would have an accent, like representatives of Caucasian ethnic groups.

- Judging by your career, there seems to be a mutual affection between you and Poland. It all started with «Hamlet» in Poznan (2019), where you were invited for the lead role by the iconic Polish director Maja Kleczewska. How did this happen?

- Maja has been following Ukraine since 2013. Initially, she was concerned that our young people were dying on the Maidan, and then in the ATO. When she decided to stage her «Hamlet» at the Polish Theatre in Poznan, she thought it would be interesting if the main character returned not to Danish Elsinore from Wittenberg, but to Poland from Ukraine.

She searched a long time for the lead actor. I missed the initial audition dates, so I simply wrote to the director afterwards, and she arranged a meeting in Warsaw. After the premiere, Maja told me that I was the only one who gave her a satisfactory answer to the question of who Hamlet was.

I told her then that I understood Hamlet - he came to reclaim power because it was unjustly taken, and that is that. It is human, and there is no need to make a philosopher out of him

I also said that we should remember that in Shakespeare’s time, people came to watch this play because it was action-packed - there are so many corpses in the end. So there is no need to seek superhuman qualities or lofty ideals in Hamlet. Certainly, he is of a delicate soul, but above all, he is a human being. Maja and I discussed this for about four hours, she understood my stance on the character. And I was cast in the role.

- And, judging by the success of Kleczewska’s «Hamlet», Poles accepted you?

- I had long wanted to enter the Polish acting market. Especially since I know Polish - though not intentionally, I learnt it as a child. I can almost perfectly understand it by ear and communicate fairly well.

- How did you learn Polish?

- When I was in the sixth grade, the only TV channels we had in our village were UT-1 and UT-2. In some towns, people could watch other channels, but we only had these, broadcasting from morning till night about how much grain Ukraine had harvested. My father bought a satellite dish from abroad, and I started watching Polish TV - specifically, the channels Polsat and Polsat-2, which featured comedy series like «13 posterunek», «The Kiepski World» («Świat według Kiepskich»), and various sitcoms… It was all so colourful, with interesting storylines.

I became hooked on Polish television and learnt Polish by listening. Later, while working in theatre, I began reading books in Polish and occasionally speaking with native speakers. Right before «Hamlet», the theatre hired me a pronunciation tutor.

- After «Hamlet», Maja Kleczewska staged a production of «Forefathers' Eve» by Adam Mickiewicz at the Ivano-Frankivsk Drama Theatre, and it was reportedly «tailored for you».

- Maja is totally my director. Our collaboration in Poznan was so inspiring for both of us that after «Hamlet», we immediately began planning future projects.

We searched for material for a long time, Maja wanted to work on a piece of Ukrainian literature, and we even discussed «Macbeth». Then the full-scale invasion happened, and Kleczewska decided she would stage «Forefathers' Eve» because, in her view, there is no other anti-Russian dramatic work quite like it in Polish literature.

We chose the third part of this poetic drama, where Mickiewicz describes Polish-Russian relations that very much resonate with what Ukraine is experiencing now in its relations with Russia. Nothing new - this is a universal story for both Poland and Ukraine, as it is fundamentally about a person’s freedom being threatened by a powerful adversary.

- In «Forefathers' Eve», you once again play a prisoner. Well, you play the proud poet Konrad, but the audience perceives you as an Azovstal defender.

- While we were working on the play, we did not even think about captivity. I was very moved when audiences started interpreting the characters on stage as defenders from Azov. After the premiere, a friend told me that when my character Konrad emerged from an imaginary basement or prison for the grand improvisation, she saw it as if an Azov commander was coming out of the trench straight into enemy fire.

People interpret things in various ways. And that is fantastic because it means the work is multi-layered and rich in meaning. That is precisely what should happen with works of talent.

- You have already walked the red carpet in Venice twice. Now you could win an Oscar - why not? Americans already know you, a critic from The Hollywood Reporter once praised your performance in «Reflection». How do you feel about fame?

- I have no problem with people paying attention to my work and praising it.

Yes, I read about myself in The Hollywood Reporter and Variety - positive reviews inspire and motivate. And humility does not lead to anything good (smiles).

As for the Oscar - one should always hope, but simply being nominated is already a huge success.

Photographs from a private archive

Ruslan Baginskiy hats on Madonna, Guzema jewellery in the series «Emily in Paris», Beyoncé and Jennifer Lopez in dresses by Ivan Frolov, Heidi Klum in an outfit by Lesia Verlingieri on the red carpet in Cannes… The Western world’s interest in Ukrainian brands is growing, and Ukrainians are being invited to participate in global fashion weeks. In September - for the first time during the war - a fashion week was held in Kyiv - Ukrainian Fashion Week (UFW).

After two and a half years of forced absence in Ukraine, it returned to support the Ukrainian fashion industry and amplify Ukraine's voice globally. Over four days, sixty-one brands, including ten new names, presented their vision for the spring-summer 2025 season. Yet, in the context of war, the collections shown were less about fashion and more about resilience and revival. Today, we can say that this fashion week is a historic event for Ukraine.

«People want to live, work and be effective», explains UFW co-founder and head of the organising committee Iryna Danylevska. Sestry spoke with Iryna about the social dimension of fashion and poignant designer statements at UFW 2025, as well as about 2.5 years of Ukrainian fashion abroad.

«The world must understand: if all talented Ukrainians are killed, it will be impoverished»

Oksana Goncharuk: Returning to Ukraine after two and a half years of working abroad - a difficult decision…

Iryna Danylevska: Over these two and a half years, we organised twenty-nine runway events in London, Berlin, Budapest, Lisbon, Vienna, Copenhagen, thereby supporting the Ukrainian fashion industry. But fashion brands are not the entire industry, so we - despite all risks - returned home.

We set three goals: to support the industry and Ukrainians, to demonstrate the need to be effective for the country during the war, and to ensure that Ukraine continues to resonate globally.

Not only the appeals of our politicians, not only reports on destroyed homes and civilian deaths should continuously circulate worldwide. Instead, we wanted to show Ukraine as a country of not only courageous but also talented people. So that those who, somewhere abroad, view photos from UFW held in Kyiv during wartime, come to understand: if all these talented people here are killed, the world will be impoverished.

- How many countries have seen our fashion during the war?

- Since the start of the war, we have held shows in 12 countries. These were exclusively official events such as fashion weeks or major international exhibitions.

It was a revelation for us that global fashion, which is considered a highly competitive environment, was ready for solidarity

They did not just lend us their catwalks but created special conditions, understanding how difficult it is for Ukrainian brands to survive during the war. London, Budapest, Berlin, Lisbon, Los Angeles - everywhere we had comfortable conditions for shows. Some provided free venues, some paid for models, some - like Berlin Fashion Week - could, with state support, invite our young designers and cover their tickets and accommodation. This was powerful support for which we are sincerely grateful.

- Where did the first Ukrainian show during the war take place?

- In Malta, in the summer of 2022. Designer Nadiya Dzyak participated in Malta Fashion Week. Models walked the runway with yellow and blue scarves, and our wheat-and-sky flag was displayed on the backdrop. The organisers also requested that we record a video message explaining events in Ukraine, which they played repeatedly.

- Did any state institutions ever offer you assistance?

- Everything was on our initiative and personal connections.

However, when we needed male designers to travel to London or Copenhagen, we sought help from the Ministry of Culture and Information Policy. We are very grateful to USAID (the United States Agency for International Development, which provides non-military aid - Edit.), which implements the «Competitive Economy of Ukraine» programme. Thanks to grants from the fund, we held five events.

Fashion Created in Bomb Shelters

- How did you personally react to the start of the war before realising action was necessary?

- I awoke immediately. Only a week had passed since the full-scale invasion, and we were already writing letters to all global fashion organisations, proposing six effective steps to support Ukraine. We advised hiring Ukrainians from the fashion sector who had found themselves abroad, avoiding collaboration with Russian models or brands. We asked employees of large fashion corporations to write letters to their leaders to encourage them to help Ukraine. We also provided several specific addresses for assistance - verified charitable foundations.

In March, the initiative Support Ukrainian Fashion (SUF) was born. We sent 16 letters, informing colleagues that Ukrainian fashion brands were on the verge of survival. We immediately received 12 responses with offers of support and acceptance. Among the first to respond were Copenhagen, Berlin, Budapest, Bucharest and Vienna.

- Did you consider leaving the country with your family?

- No, because we knew we could be useful at home. Our entire family made this decision. I focused on fashion brands, our daughter Dana, a professional psychotherapist, continued her practice. My husband, Volodymyr Nechiporuk (UFW's general producer - Edit.), who has volunteered and helped wounded soldiers since 2014, immediately chose this path. We divided tasks to be as effective as possible.

At the start of the war, we did send our grandchildren to relatives in the Ternopil region, but they returned after two months. Since then, we have all lived together in a house near Kyiv. When there are attacks and it becomes dangerous, we hide in the garage, which is buried on three sides and serves as a shelter.

- How does the Ukrainian Fashion Week team work on its messages? How should we speak to the world today to be heard?

- That is a very good question, as we must constantly think about what we want to convey. Over the two and a half years of war and four fashion seasons, we have adjusted these messages multiple times.

For example, in early 2023, we needed the world's support and donations. At London Fashion Week, we held a joint show of collections created during the war by three Ukrainian brands (KSENIASCHNAIDER, PASKAL and FROLOV). At the end of the show, the designers appeared with a Ukrainian flag bearing the UNITED24 logo (a fundraising platform collecting aid for Ukraine worldwide - Edit.).

In 2023, before each show, we wrote letters to guests instead of releases, explaining that the collections they were about to see were created amid the sounds of alarms, during explosions and blackouts…

So that everyone understood that the collections were made by brave and resilient people.

Later, when talk began of the need to «negotiate», we added to our messages that we are being killed simply because we want to be Ukrainians in an independent state.

It is important to always bridge the emotional with the official to convey that we must win this war - otherwise, it will keep repeating, as Russia will not allow us to be free.

This season, we held shows in Budapest, Berlin and Copenhagen. Copenhagen Fashion Week is about sustainability, environmental awareness and sustainable development. The Danes respond strongly to issues of ecology and nature preservation. When we discussed with designers what message to convey to the guests, we came up with the idea of telling them about our Askania-Nova biosphere reserve. Okay, you care about nature preservation - then look at how Europe's largest steppe reserve is being destroyed in plain sight, literally obliterated by the Russians.

To tell the story of Askania-Nova, we chose Ukrainian vytynanka - one of the most vivid traditional forms of our craft. Imagine: the entire second floor of the Ukrainian House in Denmark was filled with vytynanky depicting zebras, herons, other animals and birds, as well as plants from the reserve. It was against this backdrop that the new collections were presented.

- How impactful are your messages?

- We have not broken the system, but we have contributed to helping Europeans and Americans understand what is really happening.

The power of culture is in its constant, emotional and sincere expression. People need to encounter reminders everywhere: Ukrainians are fighting for freedom, for the right to be Ukrainian. Some are born with the right to be free, while Ukrainians must fight for this right.

«War drives us to fulfil old dreams, as it is uncertain if there will be a tomorrow»

- You mentioned that the fashion industry froze at the start of the war. How is it today?

- The market froze, not the industry. In 2022, Ukrainian designers simply shifted their production to military needs, began sewing for the army, which suddenly grew due to volunteers. Every sphere suffers during war, but most designer brands have survived - thanks to our support, the move towards exports and an increase in online sales.

There are phenomena that were born during the war. Antonina Belinska, a talented movie costume designer, had always dreamed of her own clothing brand.

After overcoming the initial shock of the war, she finally dared to make this dream a reality and created the brand TONiA. To me, this is a poignant story about how the uncertainty of tomorrow pushes us to fulfil our dreams today.

- Are Ukrainian designers involved in creating military uniforms, particularly for women?

- The Veteranka sewing workshop creates winter, demi-season and summer military uniforms. In two years, this workshop has produced 1291 units of women’s tactical clothing.

Since the start of the large-scale war, Veteranka has received hundreds of requests from female soldiers asking for adjustments to the men’s uniforms they were issued. Therefore, the workshop focused on sewing high-quality women's military uniforms, which are provided free of charge to female defenders upon request.

- When you decided that UFW would happen, were the designers ready to accept this challenge?

- We began discussing fashion week in Ukraine as early as November 2023. Even then, designers started writing and calling me.

On the very first day, we announced that applications were open, 25 were submitted. This only strengthened our belief that such an event was necessary right now. However, we took a long time to make an official announcement, which we did only once preparations were in full swing.

We spent considerable time figuring out how to ensure everyone could go to the shelter during air raids and return to the shows afterwards without completely disrupting the schedule. We thought about holding the event not at Mystetskyi Arsenal, but directly in a shelter. However, Mystetskyi Arsenal won, as it is a reliable building with a shelter for 800 people.

Of course, we were also concerned about power outages, so we secured our operations with two generators.

- How many air raid alerts occurred during Fashion Week?

- It is a miracle, but there was not a single alert at that time. They happened between the first and second days of the event, and a journalist from British Vogue, who was brave enough to come to Ukraine for the event, wrote in his article that instead of an opening party, UFW had alerts and explosions.

- The art installation showcasing our designers' responses to the war received significant resonance...

- These are 18 artworks that designers created as reflections on the war. For example, Bevza's necklace, which resembles a circle of charred wheat stalks - a symbolic reminder of Ukrainian wheat that feeds many countries worldwide. Or Ksenia Schnaider's jacket, sewn from ties that Ukrainian men no longer need, as they are at the frontline. Another example is a jacket that designer Maria Starchak created right after the Mariupol tragedy - it is embroidered with the theatre bombed by the Russians, with the word «ДЕТИ» (from Russian - children) on the bottom.

From OMELIA, there is a shirt with flowers. One might wonder, what does it have to do with the war? Designer Kostyantyn Omelia said that when he returned to his studio in 2022 after forced evacuation, he saw dried flowers in vases that left a strong impression on him.

- How has the war manifested in new collections?

- Designers know how to speak about the war in a way that chills to the bone. For instance, in the shows of brands Andreas Moskin, Gasanova and Nadya Dzyak, our veterans appeared on the runway with prosthetics, conveying more about our reality and the war than any military-style clothing could.

- Guests gave standing ovations to the veterans on the runway. I was personally struck by ballroom dance champion Kateryna Stashchyshak, who professionally danced in peacetime, but the war took her leg. How challenging is it for such people to walk the runway?

- This is also about courage. They did it to show our Ukrainian life. Inclusivity is not a trend, it is our new reality, and we are ready to live this way. We respect and bow to these people. They will never be separated from the processes taking place in the country. They should not sit at home alone with their pain.

Photos: UFW

Olesia Trofymenko blends painting techniques with ancient Ukrainian embroidery. In March 2022, during the peak of the war, Dior approached Olesia to create decorations for their collection show. However, this collaboration went beyond simple set design. The world of high fashion sought to see and hear Ukraine in its unique, authentic form. The central theme of Dior's collection became the «Tree of Life» - a key element from traditional embroidered towels of the Chernihiv region.

The «Tree of Life» symbolises the triumph of light over darkness. In the first few days of Olesia Trofymenko’s exhibition at the Rodin Museum in Paris, more than 10 thousand visitors attended - an impressive turnout, according to Dior’s PR team, and a rare occurrence. Sestry spoke with Olesia about her collaboration with the globally renowned brand, how she reached European officials and millionaires, and the high-level artistry of Ukrainian embroidery.

Embroidered symbol of life’s victory over death captivated Dior's creative director

Yaryna Matviiv: Is it true that the news about collaborating with Dior caught you off guard while you were in the garden?

Olesia Trofymenko: That is exactly what happened. In some ways, I was lucky because, during the invasion, I was far from Kyiv, in a village. But emotionally, it was very difficult - panic attacks would not leave me alone. On the fourth day of the war, I went out to plant a garden. It was my psychological protest against death and all the horrors Russia was causing. It was my personal war to claim the right to plant flowers and gardens on my land, in defiance of the machinery of death.

By the way, in Kyiv, it is quite noticeable: flowerbeds, which were usually overrun with weeds, are now planted with flowers. When I spoke with my neighbours, they had the same impulse - to urgently fill this wounded earth with beauty.

It was during this time that I received a call from the curator of an exhibition we had done back in 2014. At that time, Benetton held an annual exhibition inviting a hundred artists from different countries to paint on 10/15 centimetre canvases - challenging but interesting work. With the start of the full-scale invasion, it was decided to repeat this exhibition in Rome.

Back in 2014, I managed to embroider a fragment on that tiny canvas because I had just invented my painting-embroidery technique. Now, I was eager to explore this technique on a larger scale. My work caught the eye of Dior's creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri. She approached the curator about doing a joint exhibition with me. It was so unexpected!

I was standing in the garden and asked again on the phone: «Which Dior?»

The exhibition curator, Solomiya Savchuk, added that I would have 200 people working for me. I thought she meant 200 Ukrainian artists would help with the decorations. But no. «You will have 200 Indian embroiderers from Mumbai working for you», Solomiya said. In reality, there turned out to be twice as many.

It took 470 seamstresses three weeks (!) to embroider 32 of my works for Dior shows

Interestingly, this was the first Indian school where women were allowed to embroider and earn money from it (in India, traditionally, only men could earn money through embroidery). They beautifully embroidered my canvases in 3D.

- You researched Cossack embroidery from past centuries. These motifs became the face of Dior’s shows. But why did Dior turn to Ukrainian history and art?

- Well, first of all, when they approached me, it was the end of March 2022. The idea resonated because the Dior brand itself was founded after Christian Dior met his sister, who survived a Nazi concentration camp. In protest against the collapse of humanity, he established his high fashion house. It was a victory of aesthetics over destruction.

This is why it was important for them to collaborate with Ukrainian artisans (we had already witnessed Bucha and Irpin by then) - it was their political stance on the events in Ukraine. Full support.

Secondly, I use intricate embroidery techniques.

I try to showcase Ukrainian culture in a way that breaks free from the clichés that Russia has always used to present us to the world - baggy trousers and primitive embroidered shirts. In reality, Cossack embroidery is like a universe! Its aesthetic is comparable to that of Japan

For my Dior sketches, I also drew inspiration from the wedding wreaths of early 20th-century Galicia. These wreaths resemble crowns. However, the most prominent connection between me and Dior is the symbol of the Tree of Life. Dior latched onto this image. As Maria Grazia Chiuri told me, the Tree of Life is a collective symbol across all cultures. All ancient civilisations interpret it as a symbol of life’s triumph over death.

As a result, Maria Grazia completely changed the concept of her collection to incorporate this image. The «Tree of Life» became the leitmotif of the entire Dior show.

- After the Dior shows ended, did the embroidered canvases remain at the Rodin Museum?

- Yes, they hung there for a week, and museum visitors could view them. In just the first four days, 10 thousand people saw my work. The exhibition generated a lot of buzz. We spoke about Ukraine through the language of art.

Afterwards, the canvases became the property of the House of Dior.

- At the start of the war, France and Italy were still influenced by Russian propaganda. But Dior took a stand immediately?

- And that pleasantly surprised me. Maria Grazia’s first words when we met in Paris were: «Olesia, I want to tell you straight away that we are on your side, we do not believe Russian propaganda. We understand where the truth lies».

That was important because when you are abroad, it is hard to know who you can trust. Russian propaganda spends vast amounts of money to spread disinformation about the war in Ukraine.

Artists can be heard better than politicians

- A year ago, we held a screening of the film «Mariupol. Unlost Hope». Let me share the backstory: while I was creating sketches for Dior, our director Maks Lytvynov asked me to draw an illustration for a documentary about Mariupol. He filmed this right after the city was taken. In it, he interviewed women who had survived, and in the pauses between these heavy stories, I drew the city «before» and «after» the catastrophe.

This film was shown in various countries across Europe, and a French volunteer, Stéphane Delma, took an interest. He decided that more screenings should be held in France - on different public platforms.

That is how we ended up in Étretat, a tiny French commune famous for being painted by the Impressionists. The place is so popular that European millionaires have started buying houses there. It was important for us to share the stories of the women from Mariupol with this audience. However, the town’s mayor, who is over 90 years old, did not want to show the film. He said it was all politics and mentioned that he had studied Russian once. Then, things changed, just like in a movie…

The local community of active women insisted on screening the film, and after watching it, the mayor underwent a transformation. He became very sympathetic to us.

A lot of people came to the film screening, and afterwards, they asked us more detailed questions about the situation in Ukraine. Before this, the war had felt like a reality show on TV for many, but we gave them the chance to connect with the real-life experiences Ukrainians are living through. We then shared with them stories about missile attacks and how to hide from bombs and drones.

- So, does culture influence people more powerfully than media or news?

- People who create culture and art can indeed be heard better than politicians. It works.

- What makes Ukraine interesting to the global art community? Have you managed to separate the Ukrainian world from the Russian?

- Slowly, but yes. Many art historians are pushing global museums to change the attribution of works by artists who are Ukrainian, not Russian.

For Europe, we are intriguing because we have preserved a school of realist painting, but we have a different visual language and way of thinking.

We live in an age dominated by images, and we must show the world that we exist and what our culture truly represents. For too long, we were viewed as part of Russian culture, and that is partly our fault - we did not promote ourselves during peacetime. If we remain silent, we will continue to be overlooked.

Bomb explosions made from embroidered peonies

- What are you working on today?

- Right now, all my work is focused on the war in Ukraine. However, I try to address this topic metaphorically to reach a broader audience.

Otto Dix's famous paintings of World War II shocked people - the artists of that time showed the horrors of war with decomposing bodies on the streets. Since then, images of violence have become part of mainstream culture.

In contrast, I aim to «mask» these horrifying realities with beauty in my paintings. Currently, I am working on a series called «Substitution». I cover the wounds of soldiers with lilies and depict explosions using embroidered peonies. By using symbols of undeniable beauty, I hope to draw people in, to make them pause and look closer, and only then realise what the painting is truly about.

This is a uniquely Ukrainian ability - to process pain through beauty, aesthetics and harmony. After all, this is exactly what my neighbours do, creating stunning flower gardens in their courtyards between missile attacks

Our «Tree of Life» will grow through the minefields, taking deep roots of revival amid the ruins of Mariupol...

Photos from heroine’s private archive